Some homecleaning tips
August 16, 2010| Acids：Act quickly so that acid cannot damage the cloth. Sprinkle the stain with baking soda, dampen with water and allow to stand till bubbling stops. Rinse well in warm water. Alternatively, hold the dampened stain over an open bottle of household ammonia so that the fumes can neutralize the acid. Rinse well. Adhesive Tape：Sponge or soak the dry fabric stain with a suitable laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover) or in a grease solvent or kerosene. Kerosene will make the cloth oily, so if used, must be followed by washing in warm soapy water. Alcohol：Always treat these as soon as possible. Often stains are almost colourless at first, but turn brown on standing, washing and ironing. Fresh stains can be removed by sponging several times with warm water. If there is any mark left, pour glycerine on the dampened stain, rub lightly between the hands and leave for half an hour. Rinse in warm water. More stubborn stains may be sponged on dry fabric with equal quantities of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) and ammonia (test on colours first) or laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover). Rinse well in warm water. If any stain is left on white material, a laundry bleach may be used. Choose and use your bleach according to instructions given earlier. Alkali’s：such as washing soda and ammonia, or cuticle remover, may destroy colour and rot material. Rinse at once in equal quantities of vinegar and water. Rinse well in warm water. If colour has been affected this cannot be corrected. Ball-Point Ink：See under Ink for stain removal suggestions Baby Oil：Rub some dishwash liquid into the stain, leave for 10-15 minutes, then hot wash (60-65°C) using your normal laundry detergent. If any stain remains, repeat the process. For unwashable fabrics or articles, see under Butter. Bleach：Treat immediately in copious amounts of cold water. For chlorine bleach, add 1 Tbsp. vinegar in each 600 mls water. If the colour has been removed by the bleach, it cannot readily be restored, but try holding in fumes from an open bottle of ammonia. Blood：If fresh, sponge with cool salted water (1tsp : 600 ml water) and rinse with clear water. Blue: Rinse fresh marks in cold water. Soak any more difficult stains in a solution 1 Tbsp. vinegar in 1200 ml of warm water. Wash as usual. Boot Polish :Sponge with a laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover) or with dry cleaning fluid. Butter, Cream & Fatty Stains Common household salt can be used to “Set Dyes” at a rate of quarter to half a cup per wash tub load. Leave to soak half an hour, rinse, then hang to dry. Salt is a common additive to Laundry Powder formulations. Among it’s many uses, salt minimises the risk of “running dyes” when laundering garments. Egg：Scrape away as much as possible. Sponge with lukewarm water. Never use hot water, as heat hardens the stain. If this does not succeed, spread the stain with a paste of cream of tartar and water, adding a crushed aspirin to the paste. Leave for 20 - 30 minutes. Rinse well in warm water. OR use a diaper wash/sanitiser container sodium percarbonate. Fruit Juices & Berries： Fresh stains are easy to remove, but once dry, they are very obstinate. Treat with cool water first and follow up, if necessary, by soaking in a chlorinated laundry bleach or a diaper wash/sanitiser container sodium percarbonate. Rinse. White cottons and linens may be stretched over a basin and boiling water poured through from a height. Any remaining stain may be removed with chlorinated laundry bleach. Coloured fabrics or washable silk, etc., may be soaked in a diaper wash/sanitiser container sodium percarbonate or a warm borax solution (1 Tbsp. : 1 c water), or covered with a paste of cream of tartar and warm water. Leave half and hour or until stain goes, then rinse well. For persistent stains apply equal quantities of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) and ammonia. Rinse well after treatment. This method is safe for all fabrics, except triacetate (e.g. Tricel). Dilute mixture with an equal quantity of water for fabrics with fugitive dyes. Old stains may be softened in glycerine before treatment. Damp stain, apply glycerine, leave 1 - 2 hours, then add a few drops of vinegar, leave 5 - 10 minutes and rinse well. Ice Cream, Milk & Cream Indelible Pencil Very light scorch marks can often be removed by immediate washing with your usual laundry product, followed by a day in the sun. Alternatively, sponge with 1 Tbsp. borax in 1 c warm water. Light scorch marks on white materials can be treated with hydrogen peroxide. Dampen a scrap of white cotton cloth with hydrogen peroxide and lay it on the mark. Cover with a clean dry cloth, then press with a medium warm iron. If the peroxide soaks through the top cloth, move to a dry position. Repeat the treatment until the stain is removed. Rinse well in warm water. Light scorch marks on any fabric (test colours first) may be treated by sponging with diluted hydrogen peroxide to which a few drops of ammonia have been added. Rinse well in warm water. (Instructions for dilution under directions for using bleaches). Shoe Cleaners If this is not successful, treat washable fabrics with glycerine. Pour on to the stain, rub lightly between the hands, leave for half an hour, then wash or rinse in warm water. On unwashable fabrics or for very stubborn marks, sponge with equal quantities of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) and household ammonia. (Test on coloured fabrics first). Then sponge with warm water. Silly Putty Soft Drinks Soot & Smoke For carpets, mix solvent to a paste with cornflour, talcum or french chalk. Apply thickly - leave to dry, then brush or vacuum off. Repeat if necessary. Use absorbent powder only on rubber backed carpeting. Or use a spray-on dry cleaner. Soy Sauce Tar & Asphalt If this is not successful on washable materials, rub Vaseline or lard into the stain. Leave for half an hour, then wash in hot soapy water. For unwashable materials the stain will be very difficult. Sponge repeatedly with dry cleaning fluid. If the mark still persists, rub with Vaseline, leave for half an hour, then dip in dry cleaning fluid. If possible, finish by sponging with a solution made from a good quality laundry liquid, starting well to the outside of the stain. Tarnish For tarnished metallic fabrics, e.g. lame, if practicable, boil in salt water (2 Tbsp. to 600 ml). Not suitable for plastics. Otherwise, sponge with methylated spirits (wood alcohol) or dry cleaning fluid. Tobacco Tomato Juice, Relish or Chutney Twink (Whiteout) (Liquid Paper) (Liquid Correction Fluid) |
Drinking straw machine informations
August 10, 2010The drinking straw machine apparatus according to claim 1 wherein:
there are frictional grip-enhancing features provided on said outer peripheral surfaces of the auxiliary rollers
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION： The present invention relates to a packing machine, optionally an attachment for a packing machine, for packing bales of straw fodder of a “rectangular” form the machine comprising two drive rollers which rotate the straw fodder bale around a substantially horizontal axis.
In agriculture, it is becoming more and more common to ensile straw fodder in the form of packed straw fodder bales. There is a movement away from the traditional silo plant.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION ：An objective of the present invention is to provide either a new complete packing machine, or optionally an attachment which can be mounted subsequently on machines which already exist, for packing bales of straw fodder which are rectangular in form.
According to the invention, this is achieved by a cutting machine, or optionally an attachment thereto, of the kind described by way of introduction which is characterized in that each drive roller is operationally coupled to two auxiliary rollers.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS： The invention will now be described in more detail by means of an embodiment example where the machine is of the kind which is equipped with a swivel arm. The embodiment example is described with reference to the enclosed drawings where:
FIG. 1 shows in perspective a packing machine according to the invention in perspective,
FIG. 2 shows a schematic frontal outline of the packing machine according to FIG. 1,
FIG. 3 shows schematically a rotation sequence of the rectangular bale around the horizontal axis,
FIG. 4 shows a longitudinal section through the drive roller and the auxiliary roller and an end section of the roller unit,
FIG. 5 depicts the previously known packing machine of the kind which has a swivel arm, and
FIG. 6 depicts the previously known spoon-shaped straw machine of the kind which has a swivel table
DETAILED DESCRIPTION： On the back edge of the roller units 4, two support rollers are mounted, to which the fodder bale 5 rests adjacent at the back edge.
FIG. 2 illustrates schematically the packing machine 10 viewed from the front where the straw fodder bale 5 has started its rotational movement. As can be seen from the figure, the fodder bale 5 rests, in this phase, on the all the auxiliary rollers 2.
FIG. 3 shows a rotational sequence through the first 90° of the turning movement of the rectangular bale. This also shows how the roller units 4 work the whole time during the turning of the rectangular bale.
FIG. 4 shows a longitudinal section through the drive roller 1 and the auxiliary roller 2. At the end of each roller, a chain wheel 11 is mounted for the transmission of power to the auxiliary rollers 2.
Soap Nut Liquids and Powders
August 9, 2010Soap Nut Liquids and Powders:
Let’s address these first, given that they are the most similar to what we are all accustomed to using. The variables here (aside from amounts to use) are primarily the concentration of the liquid, and/or the fineness and potency of the powder. If you are making your own liquid then the potency of saponin in the liquid will vary depending upon how you make it. You will simply have to experiment. Be certain to strain your own liquid extremely well, to avoid clogging anything (a coffee filter straining would be a good idea).
If you are using powder poured directly in with your laundry, you want it to be as fine as you can possibly get it (dust like is preferred). You may not get an adequate release of saponin for a laundry load from a course grind and a short wash cycle. In this scenario it is best to use a fine powder, or put it in a wash bag or similar carrier for multiple loads, but be sure to pre-soak it first. This will allow the course ground soap nuts time to become well saturated. Approximately a half-ounce of very, very fine, quality soap nut powder (added directly in with your laundry) will obviously wash only one load. The powder will be flushed out during the rinse and then out the drain. A course grind in a tightly tied wash bag will be fine for multiple loads. If you are adding salts, water softeners or any other cleaning boosters, that’s totally fine (part of the fun during experimentation, too). Since ground soap nuts do not entirely dissolve as commercial detergents do, it is not recommended to use compartments at all. Depending on how your machine functions, the powder may not receive a sufficient water supply, plus it could cause clogging.
If you are using a highly concentrated soap nuts liquid, dilute it to the amount of solution your machine is designed to use (typically this is a couple ounces of liquid). Don’t rack your brain trying to be exact. Hence, if the soap nut concentrate suggests one teaspoon per load, simply mix the one teaspoon with water until you’ve reached the desired amount of solution you intend to use. If you are planning to do many loads feel free to make up enough solution in advance. High quality concentrates may be diluted without loss of shelf life.
Most soap nut liquids are much like any other detergent as far as the suggested amount per load, however there are concentrated soap nut extracts that are literally “off-the chart”. This is only common sense again: A soap nut formulator is by nature following a “greener path”. It is only logical for such companies to strive to minimize the carbon footprint of their formulas. That is the truly green thing to do.
(As an aside, I feel that such companies should be commended for walking their talk. That truly green path is certainly not the simple and easy one with the least resistance. Many obstacles are typically found. Innovation is the antithesis of “going with the flow.”)
No machine is designed to use such highly concentrated detergents, hence if you are using the detergent compartment(s), simply dilute it as described above. Very, very simple, right? With front loaders you will usually use the compartments. With top loaders you can just pour the concentrated extract directly into the water basin as it fills so prior dilution is not required.
Isn’t this easy? Plain old common sense again, right? There is no rocket science here. Good results are what we are striving for. It may take a couple loads to dial in the best results, but you will soon just “know” what to do. If you have a pre-wash and a main wash cycle, simply use as your owner’s manual suggests.
Skipping soda may help with bone strength
August 6, 2010Want strong bones? Eat foods high in calcium and vitamin D, get plenty of exercise and maybe steer clear of soda.
In recent decades, as soda consumption has displaced consumption of other drinks — particularly milk — studies have consistently linked soda consumption with weaker bones. Now, scientists are trying to figure out how and why.
One theory is that a component in cola might cause bone to deteriorate; another is that people who drink soda simply drink (and eat) fewer nutritious foods. Free-phosphate detergent.
Sodium metasilicate pentahydrate in house cleaning
August 5, 2010P78u—safe non-toxic washing powder with no phosphorus, nitrogen or aluminum: it uses long-chain fatty alcohol made from natural animal or vegetable oil, fatty acid derivatives or saponin as a surfactant. At the same time, it uses sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium metasilicate pentahydrate, modified starch and sodium sulfate as additives. This product is examined by relevant departments to be a non-toxic, safe detergent with negative mutation.
P27a—speed ink removal lotion: made by certain substances mixing with water and emulsifying including carboxymethyl cellulose, leveling agent, sodium metasilicate pentahydrate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, AEO-3, SP-80, ethyl acetate, propylene glycol methyl ether, alcohol and kerosene. It has a lot of advantages: non-toxic; non-corrosive; non-polluting; non-burning; powerful detergency; good fluidity and stability; no metamorphism; good security; quick cleaning speed, etc. It can be widely used in the removal of oil on various items, especially for scrubbing printing machines, rollers and ink on the tape.
Magnesium rod is often seen in electric water heater. Due to lack of the knowledge about magnesium rods, it is extremely difficult to clean, let alone the maintenance. Here is a formula which makes use of sodium metasilicate pentahydrate for users.
Take 20% sodium alkyl aryl sulfonate, tetrasodium EDTA (dihydrate) 12%, 25% sodium carbonate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate (monohydrate) 10%, and sodium metasilicate (pentahydrate) 33% to mix, modulate into mixture, and then clean magnesium rod with the mixture.
